old europe in canada

I work for BMO, which stands for Bank of Montreal, so it's only natural that Montreal (pronounced "Muntreal" by anyone who knows what they are doing) has a special place in my heart. I've gone a few times for work, but the most fun trip was definitely the time I visited with Tracey in the spring. It was about a year after the first time I'd been there and I was optimistically expecting the same sunny spring weekend I had experienced...not so much. Instead, the gloomy haze gave the city a sort of ethereal quality that made the buildings of Old Montreal especially picturesque. 

Montreal is an incredible mix of old world Europe and a new metropolitan city, so it has no shortage of beauty, things to do, and amazing food (seriously everything tastes better there and I dont know wtf is going on) And that exchange rate on the Canadian dollar doesn't hurt either.

I'm lucky to have some local coworkers to call upon for recos, but my list will also hit some of the obvious sites (I didn't include Schwartz's because I didn’t want to insult you guys like that - obvi you're going there), as well as some places that I stumbled upon myself and really enjoy. I broke it out between Old Montreal and everywhere else because it really does feel like you are in two different worlds!

PS: no worries if you don't speak French, but if you do and want to practice, go for it! I found it to be a lot less intimidating to try it out there than in actual France. 

Basic White Girl Fun fact: Montreal is the home to the flagship Club Monaco store and it's pretty dreamy if you're into that sort of thing. You'll find it on Rue St. Catherine along with pretty much every other store you can imagine. 

recos 

Old Montreal 

Hotel Place d'Armes
Full disclosure, this is the only place I've stayed in Montreal. Hear me out, all my BMO coworkers (locals and non-locals alike) are obsessed, and the location right off the plaza is not only perfect, it's downright lovely. Pro tip: request a room in the new tower because the decor is Parisian and chic and weirdly the older tower decor is heavy-handed, carpeted and overwhelmed with prints. 

Tommy Cafe
A love letter:

Sometimes when I travel, I get emotionally attached to a place and I can't let go/stop thinking about it/debating buying a plane ticket just to go back. In Montreal, this is Tommy Cafe. I find an excuse to go here at least once a day every time I visit. Picture the most perfect coffeeshop just off Place d' Armes in an old gov't building that still has the old world character with a coat of white paint, #plantgoals hanging from the high ceilings, and delicious, unpretentious coffee and bites (hint: all of the toasts are legit). The real star is the Nutella cronut. Get your instagram ready. 

Basilica Notre Dame
Right in the center of the Place D' Armes is a spitting image of Notre Dame in Paris. I really wish I could say something eloquent about this gorgeous cathedral, but sadly the extent of my knowledge is that it's where Celine Dion got married (AND THAT WAS ALL I NEEDED TO KNOW). Worth the $5 to get in and walk around. This is a great refuge from the hustle and bustle of the city. 

BMO Branch on Place d' Armes
Ok ok ok, yes I'm biased. BUT because you'll be on the PD'A anyway you might as well do a 180 degree turn from staring at Notre Dame and check out Canada's first bank (we turned 200 this year!) The branch is stunning, and can't help but make you long for the days when running errands was a thing. 

Olive et Gourmando
This is simple food done extremely well in Old Montreal. Perfect for lunch/brunch or a quick pastry break.  Expect to wait ~20 min for a table - you can kill time at the cute shops nearby! Pro tip: the grilled cheese is outstanding (and I am not a grilled cheese person)

Outside of Old Montreal

Bota Bota Spa
Bota Bota is unlike any spa experience you've had before because it's located in a docked boat on the harbor. It's also super unpretentious (I am usually really intimidated by spas) while being really relaxing. Bring your suit and a pair of sandals and spend a morning or afternoon hopping between the dry/wet saunas, hot tubs, cold baths and pools with a glass of champs in between. No need to reserve in advance, just show up when you need a break from all your walking/eating/shopping/eating

Mount Royal
Controversial opinion: I don't like hiking. So when one of my coworkers suggested I hike Mount Royal, I was like "yeah!" (inside voice: "nope!") But because I get travel fomo, I decided to scope it out. Here's the thing, Mt. Royal is a glorified hill at best. Trek to the chateau for the best view of the city, or just chill and people watch on the grass. Or, if the weather is gross like it was when Trac and I went, have your Uber driver take to to the chateau, snap some pics and get a bagel. 

Dieu du Ciel!
This small pub/brewery is the perfect stop post-"hike," especially if you want to blend in with locals. It's situated in the Mile End hood so it's great for walking around and scoping out the cute shops and houses around the area. 

St-Viateur Bagel or Fairmount Bagel
I've been to both, and honestly they are pretty much the same (is this up for debate? Would love to know) A little crispier than the American bagel, the Montreal bagel is IMO, nothing to write home about, but if it's on your bucket list either of these will work. 

Big in Japan Bar
This is one of the coolest bars I've ever been to (not an oversell, I assure you). There is no sign, just plug the name in to Google maps and look for the black door. It's one in one out so don't be surprised if there's a short line, but when you enter down a long hallway you'll be guaranteed a seat at the long, snaking bar and you'll forget all about the outside world. There, bartenders in tuxs will serve you craft cocktails (or you can buy your own bottle of Japanese whiskey to keep hanging from the ceiling for your return trip). I love the gritty but upscale juxtaposition of this super cool spot. 

Agrikol
This new-ish Haitian food hotspot is owned by some of the guys in Arcade Fire (did I make that up?), so it's already surrounded with the cache of cool, but I was most impressed by it's ability to be super extra and still seem like it's not trying too hard. You'll feel like you're on a Caribbean vacation in Canada, but in the least corny way. Great for a lively dinner before going out. Beware: those tropical cocktails go down real easy...

Le Filet or Le Serpent
These sister restaurants are great for a more "upscale" din. Vibe is cool and modern and the food is flawlessly executed (oysters, always). If you go to Le Filet, order the Le Piscine cocktail. It's pink and perfect. I made the waiter write down the recipe on the back of my receipt because I knew I would leave still thinking about it later.

Le Lab
Stop here and grab a seat at the bar if you want a mixologist side show with your cocktails - they all have crazy names and presentations (most of them include fire in some capacity)

La Banquise
You didn't think I forgot about the poutine did you? There's no better way to soak up all your cocktails than with some late night fries + cheese + gravy at Banquise (it's open lateeee). The later you go, the more teens you'll be surrounded by #loveyousomuchyoukeepmeyoung